Penderyn distillery has released a new bottle with an old name and retro label! Presenting Frognoch:
Frognoch used to be a distillery that closed in the early 20th Century, but Penderyn is paying homage to i
Frognoch single malt bottling is a vatting of Portwood and Peated wood matured Penderyn, creating a wonderful new combination of flavours. While I liked both the Portwood and the Peated versions of Penderyn, I did not expect this marriage of flavours to work so well.
What I think of it
Nose: There was an arrival of earthy notes with a hint of smoke, cranberries, lapsungshusong tea and ripe strawberries. With time, the cinnamon notes become distinct alongside lemon grass and banana candy notes.
Palate: The arrival was firm and made an impression, with notes of cinnamon, slight smoke, soft strawberry note, and green apples. With time, the umami aspect of the peated cask maturation shines through with vegetal note and an earth tea note.
Finish: The finish left a pretty good impression and was of medium length. Vegetal note, hint of smoke, red berries, medicinal note. With time, the lapsungshusong tea notes and smoke become more distinct.
http://www.whiskygeeks.sg/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/logo_WhiskyGeeks-300x138.png00Hong Fu Teohttp://www.whiskygeeks.sg/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/logo_WhiskyGeeks-300x138.pngHong Fu Teo2024-09-22 13:30:422024-10-19 10:54:43The return of Frognoch
Tomatin Distillery and its Houses. Photo Credit: tomatin.com/history
The Scottish Highland is home to many whisky distilleries today. If one takes time to read up on the history of Scottish highlands, one would easily understand why. Some of the most remote areas in the highlands were perfect locations for illicit stills, and today, these locations still bring benefits to the modern distilleries.
Location of Tomatin Distillery
Tomatin (the village) is a 25 minutes drive south from Inverness. The proximity to a town, however, does not means that it is easily accessible. It is over 1000 feet above sea-level on the eastern part of the Monadhliath Mountains. Nonetheless, the distillery is near a market, has access to a rail line and soft, highland waters from the Alt na Frith.
History of Tomatin
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Ngl, ralfy’s video post inspired me to start question the definition between Official Bottlings (OBs) and Independent Bottlings (IBs).
But first, let’s take a few steps back to look at the conventional and older definition of Independent Bottlers. Independent Bottlers are a kind of third-party, a group other than distillery and consumer, and they buy from the distillery and sell to the consumer. Most independent bottlers fit that definition. I use this simpler definition to explain to newcomers to whisky as that held true until recently.
Not so third-party Independent Bottlers
With whisky rising to prominence, Independent Bottlers became more important. While many distilleries focusing on their unique house-style in their OBs, seasoned whisky drinkers now look for an alternative voice – IBs. The more established Independent Bottling companies like Signatory Vintage, Gordon & Macphail, Cadenhead and countless others grabbed this opportunity hard. Some of these IB companies bought over distilleries, like how Signatory owns Edradour, or G&M revived Benromach. The previous model shown now does not apply. Moreover, the owners of Springbank owns Cadenhead as well.
A bottling done by an independent company who owns or is owned by the distillery is an Official Bottling.
This definition comes from Ralfy. Furthermore, Ralfy comments that IB leads to OB sales
House Styles and Logos
OBs stick to a certain house style (overseen by their master bender or distiller) and they only have the distillery brand without the addition of a logo from the independent bottler.
House style? Official distillery bottlings with Single Casks, Glen Scotia, springbank, glenmorangie signet
Logo? Debatable. Mortlach flora and funa is just as much OB as. Their stuff now
Spirit of Independence
3) Independent Bottlings are bottled by Independent Bottlers who are not dependent on the distillery Billy Abbot’s article https://blog.thewhiskyexchange.com/2016/09/20-independent-bottlers-whisky/
Pernod Ricard Single Malt Bottlings
Ballantine’s 15yo is the other way around. To gain traction on workhorse distilleries.
Different definitions Dependent independent Non-binary approach: OB need house style branding
House style? Official distillery bottlings with Single Casks, Glen Scotia, springbank, glenmorangie signet
Logo? Debatable. Mortlach flora and funa is just as much OB as. Their stuff now
http://www.whiskygeeks.sg/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/logo_WhiskyGeeks-300x138.png00Hong Fu Teohttp://www.whiskygeeks.sg/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/logo_WhiskyGeeks-300x138.pngHong Fu Teo2024-09-19 00:54:012024-10-19 10:54:52Delving into the grey area between OBs and IBs
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HEN, Process Control, Environmental concerns, Sherry seasoning, warehouse, supply chain of casks, QC of casks
Macallan Distillery
Barley variety:
Exclusive right to use momentum barley that is grown in farms in speyside. Most of the barley used in production now is diablo, as they offer a better yield, and consistency for their core range. Sherry seasoning minimum 12 months, David Baird, 2 years someone else Warehouse
Casks of Macallan are aged in racked and dunnage warehouses, but they are never palletised. Supply chain of casks What bodegas do you work with? Different bodegas for a different style of cask? QC of casks, whisky maker smell the cask, not just complain with supply chain but find out why, troubleshoot together Coopers arent paid by casks, but given a target and paid a salary, no rush with working on speed, no issue with rejects for high-risk high issue caskss Edington database system checks on each and every cask with a number from Jerez and that number can be used to track what spirit (macallan or Glenrothes) goes into it Edringron cask tracking, lifecycle tracking bar code. Empty cask stock management, internal cask management, and location of cask Addiewell cooperage 4 cooperages and 3 bodegas Wood traceability to be integrated for the internal Edrington system, easier to promote supply circularity To help control illegal logging
In-depth understanding of oak bar Q robor more frequent in Galicia west spain. Q robor and q petraea is often hybridised Q robor more frequent in central sw france, Q Petraea more frequent in central and north eastern france Ensuring that the felljng of trees is insignificant conpared to the growth rate Challenges with the supplychain: brexit, politics, port strikes, covid Specification/QC of sherry wine differs depending on awo or eo wood
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Glen Ord over at the Muir of Ord, one of the Singleton trio of single malts
tour
G
-maltings (talisker)
-“contamination”
-Glen Ord’s female distillery manager, and the new one
-size Glen Ord has a large capacity of a whooping 11.5 Million Litres Pure Alcohol per Annum (MLPA) https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-scotland-business-19985317
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I had the incredible opportunity to continue my journey in part 2 of my trip to Ukraine! The gracious owner, Pavlo Panasuik, of MacLev Distillery in L’viv, invited me to witness and understand their remarkable process.
Preface about the city
Before I get into the details of whisky production, I would like to comment on my experience of the city of L’viv. I had certain expectations about a city in an active war zone, but what I encountered was profoundly different. The resilience and unwavering spirit of the people of L’viv left me in awe. Despite the challenges they face, they refuse to let the war that Putin waged upon them define or hinder their lives.
Photo 1: The streets of L’viv (circa July 2023)
The grocery stores are still lined with food, and the malls in the city are very modern! The Сільпо (Silpo) Supermarket was still lined with cured meats, cheese, fresh veggies and more!
Photo 2: A Сільпо (Silpo) store, which is a Waitrose or Cold Storage equivalent
And the craft beer labels have been kept up to date as well!
Photo 3: Some craft beers on the shelves of Сільпо (Silpo)
Process
The malted barley and malted wheat are from Belgium, and the milling and mashing are done onsite.
The wort undergoes a fermentation process with distillers yeast from Lalamend, lasting 4-5 days. The resulting distillation passes through a tall and thin pot still, inspired by Glenmorangie‘s pot still shape. Subsequently, the second distillation continues in a short and low-rectification column still, producing a light style of spirit.
Photo 4: The stills used at MacLev Distillery currently
One of the highlights of the visit was observing the ageing process in bespoke casks, expertly handmade by Arpad himself (featured in the post about his coopering in part 1). The dedication to craftsmanship truly shines in every aspect of their whisky-making.
Moreover, MacLev distillery is actively exploring the use of Ukrainian malt and peat. Additionally, I had the opportunity to taste the result of their trial run of malt smoked with Ukrainian peat to 15ppm, showcasing an exceptionally distinct and exciting flavour profile. They have released make an unpeated Popgold whisky as well as a lightly peated Old Copper whisky!
Photo 5: Casks used at MacLev Distillery
ремісник
During my enriching experience in Ukraine, I came across the Ukrainian word “ремісник”. The closest translated meaning in English is “artisan craftsman who have honed their skills to the utmost ability”. After spending time with Arpad at the cooperage and Palvo at the distillery, I can confidently say that they epitomize the essence of ремісник! Their dedication to their craft and the level of skill they have honed are genuinely exceptional and awe-inspiring.
It was an eye-opening experience to witness how the pursuit of excellence in whisky-making can transcend challenges, and not even an ongoing war will stop them. I am honoured to have been part of their journey and cannot wait to see what they accomplish next!
Photo 6: Pavlo Panasuik, owner of MacLev Distillery, and his wife, in the mountains of Zakarpattia (Photo Credits: Kateryna Panasuik)
Acknowledgements
I would like to thank Kateryna Panasuik for arranging and making this trip possible for me: the accommodation, the documents needed for the visa and the never-ending translator role!
The end of an era
So I did lose my panda in Ukraine before visiting the distillery. It happened 6 hours after the missiles hit L’viv, killing 6 people. Slept through air alarms. I would like to think that Panda took that for me. But Panda had a glorious end, in L’viv, Ukraine of all the places in the world it’s been to. I will be toasting a dram to my old friend!
Farewell, my friend. Rest in power; in Ukraine.
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Whiskygeeks had the incredible opportunity to witness the craftsmanship of an artisan cooper Mr Arpad Laslo. He specialises in creating barrels from local Ukrainian oak. This one-man cooperage in Zakarpattia Oblast, Ukraine, supplies casks to local wineries and a whisky distillery in L’viv. It was fascinating to learn about the meticulous process involved.
The wood
The oak used in the barrels is seasoned in bolts for approximately 1-2 years. This seasoning is vital in stave production as various species of fungi will break down lignin and other flavours. This will subsequently lead to a better flavour profile when maturing spirits.
Photo 1: Bolts and Logs of Ukrainian white oak seasoning in the Cooper’s backyard
Almost all the oak used is Ukrainian white oak, but the exact oak species is hard to determine. In Ukraine, the main species of are Sessile Oak (Quercus petraea) and European Oak (Quercus robur). The occurrence of hybridisation between the two species further muddies the water regarding the determination of exactly what species it is. That said, folks usually lump Quercus robur and Quercus petraea together as European oak in the world of whisky.
Photo 2: Ukrainian White Oak Staves
The metal
The cooper utilises a collection of traditional tools, some of which are over a century old. These tools include axes, blades and other metal tools, to shape, carve and refine the wood. The old axe below has some Scandinavian origins.
Photo 3: An axe that is over a century old
In photo 4, the etched word ‘Wien” can be seen in the middle, giving away its Austrian origins. Coopers use this tool to shave the curved internal edge of the cask body such that the cask head can fit nicely into it. You can see this tool in action in photo 9!
Photo 4: An tool with Austrian origins
The cooper brings the staves together and uses metal bands to form a “skirt” shape, as seen in the photo below. However, in this state, the cooper cannot shape the staves or risk breaking them.
Photo 5: Staves made into a “skirt” held together by metal bands
The fire
Toasting or charring is necessary for cask making as this heat treatment leads to the caramelisation of some wood sugars and the creation of desirable flavours like vanillin. These congeners in the wood could contribute desirable flavours to the spirit later using maturation. In the photo below, Arpad is using spare pieces of oak to start a fire that becomes the heat source for the cask toasting process.
Photo 6: The toasting process (Photo Credits: Kateryna Panasiuk)
The water
During the toasting process, Arpad exposes the internal side of the cask to fire and occasional splashes of water. He usually uses less water for charring compared to toasting, so that the cask can reach higher temperatures in the former process.
Photo 7: Arpad adding water to the cask (Photo Credits: Kateryna Panasiuk)
This combination of water and heat makes the staves more malleable and easier to bend into shape without breaking. The gradual tightening of the ring around the staves slowly bends them into the desired shape. I had a go at it, where I turn a screw, and this would tighten the metal band on the bottom of the “skirt”.
Photo 8: The author having a go and shaping the cask
Once Arpad bends the cask into shape, he flips the cask for even toasting, ensuring optimal flavour development.
Photo 9: Arpad expertly shaves the toasted cask with the tool from Photo 4
Afterwards, the cooper meticulously shaves down the edges to fit the cask head and presents a beautifully crafted exterior. When the staves are in place, the cooper replaces these old placement rings with new shiny hoops.
Photo 10: Arpad branding his casks
Lastly, the cooper makes the final touch by stamping his signature on the cask with a heated metal stamp.
The Ukrainian terroir and wine
This talented individual not only runs a one-man cooperage but also grows, ferments and bottles their own homemade wine. After walking us through his coopering process, he treated us to a lovely traditional meal and wine.
Photo 11: A selection of wines made by Arpad, the Artisan cooper!
I am grateful for the opportunity to witness the artistry and passion that goes into creating these exceptional barrels. It was a true privilege to experience firsthand the skill and dedication of this artisan cooper.
Photo Credits for the first and eighth photos go to Kateryna Panasiuk, my friend, translator and host!
Slava Ukraini! Heroyam Slava!
Further Reading
Conner, J. (2022) ‘Chapter 16 – Maturation’, in Whisky and Other Spirits. Third Edition. Elsevier Ltd, pp. 291–311. doi:10.1016/B978-0-12-822076-4.00013-9
Prida, A. and Puech, J.-L. (2006) ‘Influence of Geographical Origin and Botanical Species on the Content of Extractives in American, French, and East European Oak Woods’, Journal of agricultural and food chemistry, 54(21), pp. 8115–8126. doi:10.1021/jf0616098.
https://www.whiskygeeks.sg/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/Screenshot-2023-07-16-at-1.14.49-PM.png9401052Hong Fu Teohttp://www.whiskygeeks.sg/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/logo_WhiskyGeeks-300x138.pngHong Fu Teo2023-07-17 21:50:522023-07-17 22:54:18War and Whisky Part 1: The one-man Ukrainian cooperage
Whiskygeeks went to the Heart of Darkness taproom at Keong Saik Road to have a chat with Founder & CEO John Pemberton to talk about everything under the sun! Heart of Darkness is a Vietnam based brewery that has taprooms all over Asia, and has landed in Singapore in 2019! As Singapore is opening up, I was first curious about their strategy for surviving COVID because the F&B scene underwent many hardships due to regulations.
Before COVID, John focused on their taprooms to sell craft beer and the B2B sale of kegs. However, in the last 2 years, when the pandemic hit the local F&B scene, Heart of Darkness moved towards canned beers for better distribution. This helps to maintain sales revenue rather than F&B B2B sales. This amongst other internal changes, John explains, helped Heart of Darkness ride through COVID.
Singapore and Stouts
I got into craft beer with a Russian Imperial Stout, so I have a soft spot for stouts and other dark brews. John remarked that Singapore has an unusual thirst for the dark stuff. He almost could not believe his team when they told John that Singapore needed more kegs of dark beers! I also asked John about his collaboration with Teeling he did for St. Patrick’s Day 2022. The Ghost is Barrel-Aged Stout that aged in whiskey casks from Teeling, at a whopping 12% abv! John spoke about how open Teeling distillery is to collaboration and sent them barrels, and even sherry butts! So the Ghost will not be the last cask-aged beer from Heart of Darkness anytime soon!
The Ghost: Barrel-aged stout, a collaboration between Heart of Darkness and Teeling Whisky
Recently, they released Eloquent Phantom Imperial Stout, which is oak conditioned using oak chips. Sure, oak chips get a bad reputation; but many distinguished winemakers use them and keep it hush like a family secret in Encanto. Speaking as someone who has played with oak chips for fun and party tricks, I reckon oak chips offer better control. Especially in this tropical climate. So please put away the prejudice and try this dark beer if you see it!
Nuggets of Philosophy in running a brewery
John Pemberton emphasises that he wants to make a beer people would come back again for. His team strays away from one-and-done, night-ender beers that may be majestic but could destroy the palate after a pint. Heart of Darkness wants to break away from the snobbishness and pretentiousness they see in other areas of craft beer. They want to be innovative, break the norms and try unconventional beers. This could be in terms of flavour like the Cucumber Pilsner and Pomelo IPA; or in terms of method in beers such as the Phantom using oak chips. John also gives his brew team a good measure of creative control. He usually doesn’t veto a decision on a brew unless he knows it’s a brew that is going to sell.
When it comes to his taprooms, John tells us that he does not care about the 1 and 2-star reviews, stating that they weren’t going to like it anyway. He is more concerned about the 3- 4 star reviews. John remarks that this represents people who want to enjoy what Heart of Darkness has to offer, but there are a couple of pointers holding them back. It is much easier to find constructive feedback in 3 and 4-star reviews to better improve his taprooms. And honestly, this way of thinking could also be useful for many of us.
The man himself
I was surprised to learn that John was a vegetarian growing up as well and that he still is. So vegetarians, rest assured that there will be some fantastic dishes/tapas on the menu to pair with their craft beer. John has also spent quite a lot of time in Hong Kong and China, and his Mandarin is definitely better than mine.
John Pemberton with everyone else there, including Enya and Panda!
I would like to thank John Pemberton for his time out of his busy schedule, the Heart of Darkness team at Keong Saik Road and Mikki for the invite!
https://www.whiskygeeks.sg/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/photo_2022-04-18-19.32.27-1-e1650286321858.jpeg5281229Hong Fu Teohttp://www.whiskygeeks.sg/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/logo_WhiskyGeeks-300x138.pngHong Fu Teo2022-04-18 20:04:002024-10-19 10:55:19Beer conversations with John Pemberton
